How to lay a composite mesh: rules for laying and overlapping of canvases

Composite reinforcing mesh (family "Armosetka SSK") comes to the object in rolls and maps, so the installation is different from the usual work with welded metal mesh. The fabric is flexible, lightweight, does not corrode and is dielectric — but in order for the reinforcement to work, it is important to observe the geometry: the correct position of the mesh along the height of the concrete, sufficient overlap and reliable fixation. In this material — a practical procedure for screeds, floors, paths, blind areas and platforms.

Preparation of the base before laying

The quality of reinforcement begins with the base. Before rolling out the mesh, follow the basic steps:

• level and compact the base (soil, sand and crushed stone cushion or existing slab);
• install the formwork and mark the design thickness of the concrete layer;
• prepare anchors to create a protective layer;
• calculate the layout of the canvases taking into account the overlap to reduce the number of cuts;
• prepare a cutting tool — metal scissors for thin bars or grinder (BG) for Ø3 mm.

Composite mesh is convenient to carry and store: the roll takes up little space, is not afraid of moisture and does not rust when stored outdoors, unlike metal.

Step-by-step laying of composite mesh

Below is a universal work procedure for reinforcing a screed or a concrete platform with the "SSK reinforcement grid" cloth.

1. Roll out the roll. The mesh is supplied folded, so roll it in the direction of filling. If the web springs, press the edge with a temporary load or fix it to the base — the flexibility of the composite allows it to "lie down" quickly.
2. Expose the protective layer. The mesh should not lie on the bottom — it is lifted on stands (clamps, "chairs", crumbs from the solution) so that the concrete envelops the bars from all sides. Typically, the mesh is placed in the lower or middle third of the layer, depending on the loads.
3. Overlap the canvases. Neighbouring cards and rolls are overlapped rather than butt stacked so that reinforcement is continuous (see table below).
4. Tie the joints. The composite is not cooked — the webs and overlaps are connected by binding wire or plastic clamps (screeds) at the intersection of the bars.
5. Trim in place. Near the walls, columns and in the corners, the mesh is cut with scissors or grinder, leaving a technological gap to the formwork for the protective layer at the edges.
6. Check the geometry and pour the concrete. Make sure that the mesh has not shifted and does not "float", then lay and compact the mixture, trying not to step on the web between the clips.

Overlap and protective layer: landmarks

The overlap ensures the transfer of forces between the canvases. The exact value is set by the design and purpose of the structure, but in household construction they are guided by a slab in one or two cells. Below are summary landmarks for laying.

The values of the overlap and the protective layer are always consistent with the design documentation and the requirements for a particular design. You can choose the format of the canvas and the cell for the task in eTHYZ Composite Mesh Catalogue.

Cutting and docking: important nuances

The main difference between composite and steel: mesh cannot be welded — when heated, the binder is destroyed. But the canvas is easily cut:

• thin bars Ø2 mm and masonry tapes — with ordinary scissors for metal;
• ø3 mm bars — with an angle grinder (grinder) with a cutting disc;
• the edges do not rust after cutting, so no additional protection of the cuts is required.

The joints are formed only overlapping and fixed mechanically. Plastic clamps are convenient in that they also do not conduct current and do not create corrosion points — the reinforcing circuit remains completely non-metallic and without cold bridges.

Features of laying masonry mesh

To reinforce the masonry of bricks, aerated concrete and foam block, a narrow "Masonry mesh" (fiberglass/basalt) with a width of 0.36 / 0.5 / 1 m is used in rolls of 50 m each with a tensile strength of up to 50/50 kN/m. It is laid differently than the web for screeds:

• the tape is rolled directly along the horizontal masonry seam on a layer of mortar;
• a mortar is applied on top and masonry is continued — the mesh is recessed into the seam;
• at the corners and junctions, the tape is overlapped so that the reinforcement is continuous;
• cut the desired length with scissors right on the spot.

Such reinforcement of joints increases the crack resistance of the masonry and does not form corrosive foci inside the wall.

Typical stacking errors

• The mesh is at the bottom. Without retainers, there is no protective layer from below — the reinforcement does not work as it should.
• Butt joints. The absence of overlap breaks the continuity of the canvas.
• Attempted welding. The composite is connected only by viscous/clamps.
• Walking on the mesh when filling. The web shifts and “sinks”; walk on walkways or between locks.
• Insufficient indentation from the formwork. The bars at the very edge remain without a protective layer.

Following these rules, you get lightweight, durable and corrosion-resistant reinforcement, which qualitatively replaces metal welded mesh. The composite fabric complies with GOST 31938-2012 for composite polymer reinforcement. Pick up a cell 50×50, 100×100 or 200×200 mm and the map format for your object is convenient in section "Composite nets" — the price is specified upon request.

FAQs

What overlap should be done when laying a composite mesh?

Adjacent canvases and maps are laid overlapping, not butt-over, so that reinforcement is continuous. In household construction, they are guided by a slab in one or two cells, and the exact value is set by the design of a particular structure. The joint is fixed with a binding wire or plastic clamps at the intersection of the bars. Welding of the composite is unacceptable, so all connections are made only mechanically overlapping.

Is it possible to cut a composite mesh and with what?

Yes, the composite mesh is cut easily and without special tools. Thin bars Ø2 mm and narrow masonry tapes are cut with ordinary scissors for metal, and bars Ø3 mm are cut with a grinder (BG) with a cutting disc. The edges do not rust after cutting, so you do not need to protect the cuts. That is why the cutting of canvases in place at the walls and in the corners is carried out directly on the site.

How to provide a protective layer of concrete under the mesh?

The mesh can not be laid directly on the bottom — it is lifted on locking stands ("chairs" or crumbs from the solution) so that the concrete envelops the bars on all sides. Typically, the web is placed in the lower or middle third of the layer, depending on the loads. A gap is left along the perimeter to the formwork so that the protective layer is also from the edges. The thickness of the layer is set by the project.

What makes composite mesh more convenient than metal mesh during installation?

Composite fabric is lighter than metal welded mesh, is supplied in rolls — it is easier to carry, store and roll out on the base. It does not rust or corrode, is dielectric and does not form cold bridges. It is cut with scissors or grinder, and docked with viscous and clamps without welding. Such a mesh qualitatively replaces the metal one without the risk of corrosive foci in concrete.

How to lay a masonry composite mesh in a seam?

The narrow masonry tape is rolled directly along the horizontal seam on a layer of mortar, the mortar is applied from above and the masonry is continued by drowning the mesh into the seam. At the corners and junctions, the tape is overlapped for the continuity of reinforcement. The desired length is cut with scissors in place. This reinforcement of the joints of brick, aerated concrete and foam block increases the crack resistance of the wall without corrosion.